South Africa

Region: KwaZulu-Natal (east coast), Eastern Cape (Wild Coast), Western Cape (Cape Town / False Bay)
Type: Temperate to subtropical; shark diving, sardine run, kelp forests, coral reefs, pelagics
Significance: Home to the sardine run — one of the greatest marine migrations on Earth — and a global epicenter for great white shark photography; a recurring Wetpixel expedition destination from 2005 onward
First Wetpixel coverage: 2002

Overview

South Africa is one of the most diverse and dramatic underwater photography destinations covered in the Wetpixel archive, appearing across dozens of articles and forum threads from 2002 through 2023. The country’s coastline spans temperate Atlantic kelp forests in the west, subtropical Indian Ocean reefs in the northeast, and the rugged Wild Coast in between — offering everything from great white shark cage diving to pristine tropical coral reef macro photography.

As photographer Andy Murch wrote: “South Africa offers some of the most spectacular and varied diving in the world. To truly enjoy its diversity you’ll need a shorty, a drysuit and every thickness of neoprene in between.” He described the highlights as including “vibrant tropical reefs, soaring temperate kelp forests, crowded seal rookeries (complete with breaching white sharks), flourishing penguin colonies and the annual sardine run” ([1]).

Stephen Frink identified South Africa as one of three major “recreational hotspots” for great white shark photography worldwide, alongside Guadalupe (Mexico) and South Australia, having photographed white sharks in all three locations during 2003-2004 ([2] — forum).

Don Silcock, an Australian underwater photographer and photojournalist, wrote extensively about the Agulhas Current for Wetpixel, describing it as “the African equivalent of the Gulf Stream” that “runs straight down the 2000km long East coast of South Africa at surface speeds of up 8km an hour, bringing with it warm Indian Ocean water rich with nutrients.” Where those nutrient-rich waters touch offshore reef systems along the narrow continental shelf, they create “some incredible ecosystems” ([3]).

Key Dive Regions

The Sardine Run (Eastern Cape / Wild Coast)

The annual sardine run is the single most discussed South African diving subject in the Wetpixel archive. Every year, millions of sardines (Sardinops sagax) follow cold winter currents northward along the South African Wild Coast toward the warm Indian Ocean, drawing thousands of predators: common dolphins, bronze whaler sharks, blacktip sharks, Bryde’s whales, humpback whales, Cape fur seals, and Cape gannets ([4]).

The run takes place primarily in June and July, centered around Port St Johns in the Eastern Cape. Diving is done from RIBs (rigid inflatable boats) or Zodiacs that launch through the surf, with participants snorkeling or freediving into the action rather than scuba diving. A microlight aircraft typically scouts ahead to locate bait balls from the air ([5]).

The experience is notoriously challenging for photographers. Christian Loader, writing for Wetpixel in 2012, described it as “the most incredible, demanding, adrenaline-pumping, frustrating and difficult photographic trip I’ve done to date.” He detailed the reality: “After the hair-raising launch through the surf while protecting your fragile camera like it was a newborn baby, you spend 7 hours a day in rough seas on a small RIB, searching miles and miles of vast ocean for any sign of diving Cape gannets.” Visibility is poor, the water is cold and choppy, and competition with other snorkelers and photographers is fierce ([6]).

Fiona Ayerst, a marine biologist and photographer based in South Africa, described the full spectacle: “As I swam alongside greedy seals, penguins and even manta rays with sharks, dolphins and whales, I realised I was immersed in the greatest spectacle I may ever see. It’s all part of the annual Sardine Run.” She noted that the humpback whale migration coincides with the sardine run each year, though the whales have no interest in the sardines themselves ([7]).

Wetpixel forum member Robert Delfs (“frogfish”) described an extraordinary humpback whale encounter during the 2004 sardine run as “one of the peak experiences of my entire life,” observing that the whale “moved very slowly whenever snorkellers were close, repeatedly moving away then slowly reapproaching, positioning herself close to individual swimmers so that she could see them with one of her eyes” ([8] — forum).

Drew Wong, in his 2010 report for Wetpixel, noted growing concerns about the sardine run’s increasing popularity, including “the proliferation of new operators with limited experience.” He reported that “there have been at least 3 injuries on divers caused by sharks during the run over the years.” Wong also claimed “the dubious honor of being the first diver to have been mistaken as a sardine by a diving gannet” ([9]).

South African Graham Fenwick documented the photographic chaos in 2013: “Dusky, blacktip and bronze whalers sharks dominated a baitball off Port St John South Africa. At times there seemed to be more divers than predators all crowding in to get their shot” ([10]).

By 2011, the sardine run had become increasingly unpredictable. Earth-Touch cameraman Barry Skinstad reported that after spending a month and a half in Port St Johns, “the sardines were not in evidence this year, with there only being small bait balls of red eye.” Floods inland sent silt running “four to five kilometers out to sea” during the early season, followed by swells up to six meters ([11]).

By 2016, the decline was linked to possible overfishing. After South African angler Mark Hicks used a smartphone vessel-tracking app to detect a 28-strong Chinese fishing fleet switching off their AIS transponders near Port St Johns, the South African Fisheries Department interdicted the fleet. Wetpixel reported: “Over the past few years, the famous ‘Sardine Run’ has been quite noticeable by the lack of sardines. Whilst there are many possible causes for this, rumors have been circulating of intense commercial fishing taking place early on in the aggregation” ([12]).

Sardine Run Lens Selection

The sardine run generated active debate on Wetpixel about optimal lens choices. Drew Wong recommended the 16-35mm over the 15mm fisheye “for visibility over 8m, especially if you are on a boat with a bunch of other people sharing action.” South African photographer Jean Tresfon, who had attended multiple years, described his progression: “My first year I used a DX 10.5mm and found it slightly too wide. The following year it was a DX 10-17mm mostly at the 17mm end. Last few years I’ve gone the DX 12-24mm route mostly at the 24mm end” ([13] — forum).

Aliwal Shoal (KwaZulu-Natal)

Aliwal Shoal is a marine protected area off Umkomaas, south of Durban on the KwaZulu-Natal coast. It is best known for shark diving, particularly tiger sharks and oceanic blacktip sharks (Carcharhinus limbatus). Baited shark dives attract scores of blacktips, with Walter Bernardis identified as “one of the most experienced shark feeders in South Africa” ([14]).

Allen Walker, described as having “spent more time photographing sharks on this reef than anyone,” established himself as one of South Africa’s leading shark photographers. He co-founded BluePixel Photo, a company specializing in shark photography workshops in KZN. In 2015, Walker had the extraordinary experience of diving and photographing great white sharks outside of a cage while they fed naturally on a whale carcass off Aliwal Shoal over two days ([15], [16]).

The reef also hosts ragged-tooth sharks (Carcharias taurus), featured in Earth Touch’s Wild Oceans series. The show’s cameraman found that “despite appearances, the sharks are docile and happy to share the water” with divers. Loggerhead turtles have also been filmed in territorial disputes on the reef ([17], [18]).

In 2008, three protected tiger sharks were killed by fishermen in Aliwal Shoal’s marine protected area, prompting outrage in the Wetpixel community. Marine biologist Thomas Peschak wrote: “One dead tiger shark might fetch a once off payment of no more than $50-100 dollars for the fisherman, but alive that same shark might be worth in excess of $10,000 every year in marine eco-tourism” ([19]).

Harry Stone, another South African photographer, noted the decline in tiger shark sightings at Aliwal Shoal by 2015, attributing it partly to the gill nets deployed along the KwaZulu-Natal coast ([20]).

Protea Banks (KwaZulu-Natal)

Protea Banks is a large submerged shoal located 8 km offshore from the town of Margate in KwaZulu-Natal, approximately 800 m wide and 6 km long, at an average depth of around 30 m. Don Silcock wrote a comprehensive photographic guide for Wetpixel, describing it as “one of the best places in South Africa to dive with sharks” where divers “can see up to seven different varieties, including ragged-tooth sharks, oceanic blacktips, bull sharks, tiger sharks and two varieties of hammerheads” ([21]).

All shark encounters at Protea Banks are in open water — “no cages here,” as Silcock noted. Oceanic blacktips are the most common sharks, while ragged-tooth sharks gather in “hundreds” at the Northern Pinnacle caves during peak mating season from mid-June through the end of July. Bull sharks (called “Zambezis” in South Africa after the Zambezi River) are present nearly year-round, with 5-10 commonly gathering beneath the bait box during baited dives. Tiger sharks, averaging 4 m in length, “completely dominate the proceedings when they appear.” The Protea Banks is thought to be a breeding and birthing area for tiger sharks, with the primary season running from late February through early June ([22]).

Scalloped hammerheads gather in schools numbering “in the hundreds, sometimes several hundred” from late October through early May as part of their annual migration, though they are “notoriously shy” and difficult to photograph ([23]).

Silcock noted that “diving the Protea Banks is not for everyone — the conditions can be downright challenging, and you really do need to be a competent diver.” He credited Roland and Beulah Mauz of African Dive Adventures as the local operator ([24]).

Daniel Botelho cited Protea Banks as one of his three favorite dive sites in the world, alongside Tiger Beach (Bahamas) and Shark Reef (Fiji): “Because these are the best shark diving I have ever done in my life” ([25]).

Sodwana Bay (KwaZulu-Natal)

Sodwana Bay is a year-round diving destination 400 km north of Durban, forming part of the iSimangaliso Wetland Park — South Africa’s first UNESCO World Heritage site and its largest marine protected area. The iSimangaliso MPA provides nesting grounds for endangered leatherback and loggerhead turtles, and its submarine canyons are home to the rare coelacanth ([26]).

Diving is done from Zodiacs launched through the surf from Jesser Point. Reefs range from 7 m to over 40 m depth, formed from fossilized sand dunes densely covered with hard and soft tropical corals. Wide-angle photography is recommended as the default, with “beautiful blue water as a backdrop” and pristine reef life. Macro subjects include blennies, nudibranchs, flatworms, shrimps, crabs, and seahorses ([27]).

In 2020, a new species of pygmy seahorse — Hippocampus nalu, or the Sodwana pygmy seahorse — was described from Two Mile Reef at Sodwana Bay. It was the first pygmy seahorse discovered in Africa and the Indian Ocean, diverging genetically from its closest relatives approximately 13 million years ago ([28]).

False Bay and Cape Town (Western Cape)

False Bay, near Cape Town on the Atlantic coast, is famous for great white shark encounters, particularly the spectacular breaching behavior documented in the “Air Jaws” television series. Seal Island, a small outcrop approximately 6 km from shore, is home to around 60,000 Cape fur seals and provides a seasonal food source for great white sharks ([29] — forum).

The False Bay coastline features kelp forests inhabited by broadnose sevengill sharks (Notorynchus cepedianus), which hide in the kelp to avoid great white sharks, their only natural predator. The region is also home to endemic species including dark shysharks (Haploblepharus pictus), puffadder shysharks (Haploblepharus edwardsii), leopard catsharks (Poroderma pantherinum), pyjama sharks (Poroderma africanum), and spotted gully sharks (Triakis megalopterus) ([30]).

A 2013 paper published in PLoS ONE studied multiple great white shark feeding events on dead baleen whales in False Bay, comparing this to feeding events on Cape fur seals in the area. The research investigated the sharks’ preferred feeding areas on dead whales, intra-species social structures during feeding, and the role of weather in distributing odor cues ([31]).

Cape Town’s waters are also used for professional underwater cinematography. Dan Beecham of Underwater Video Services, based in Cape Town, was among the first to shoot underwater footage with the Sony F55 camera, producing kelp forest footage he described as having “colorimetry” that was “astounding for underwater work” — capturing colors “I have honestly never seen captured so truthfully” ([32]).

Earth-Touch cameraman Barry Skinstad, based in South Africa, filmed an encounter with a whale off Cape Infanta that he described as “the most incredible experience of my 25 years of being in the sea.” The whale appeared to deliberately follow him in the water while carefully avoiding physical contact ([33]).

Great white shark cage diving operates from Gansbaai, about two hours from Cape Town. Drew Wong recommended Marine Dynamics (formerly owned by Andre Hartman) but noted that “the 8 ops in Gansbaai are pretty similar” and that the experience had become “all a bit cattle car.” Most operators supply full equipment including wetsuits, and diving is breath-hold with gaps in the cage. Winter generally offers the best visibility ([34] — forum).

An alternative to cage diving is diving with sevengill sharks around Simonstown, which forum member pdemaagt described as “fantastic” and recommended the operator Shark Explorers ([35] — forum).

Kalk Bay (Western Cape)

In 2008, the Save Our Seas Foundation opened its Shark Centre in Kalk Bay, described as “a white shark hotspot of the world.” The centre’s mission was to “challenge the world to Rethink the Shark,” addressing the fact that over 100 million sharks were being killed annually. Chief Scientist Dr. Leonard Compagno and researcher Alison Kock directed research on white sharks in False Bay and tiger sharks in KwaZulu-Natal ([36]).

Wetpixel Expeditions

Wetpixel organized multiple sardine run expeditions to South Africa, making it one of the site’s signature adventure destinations:

SEAL Expeditions promoted the sardine run trips at DEMA 2006, with Nic de Gersigney and Lauren manning the booth. Drew Wong was photographed with de Gersigney at the event ([47]).

Earth-Touch and South African Wildlife Filmmaking

South Africa spawned a significant underwater wildlife production company covered extensively in the Wetpixel archive. Earth-Touch, started in 2007 in South Africa by Richard Van Wyk and Brian Palmer, rapidly grew into an online HD wildlife content company. Drew Wong documented their sardine run production workflow in detail for Wetpixel: the crew used a Panasonic HVX200 in a Gates housing with a wide-angle lens for underwater shooting and a Sony HVR-Z7P for topside, shooting DVCPRO HD 1080/50i. They transmitted daily rushes via a Hughes satellite dish mounted on a Toyota Landcruiser ([48]).

Barry Skinstad, an experienced freediver who had previously worked with Peter Lamberti (whose production The Greatest Shoal on Earth about the sardine phenomenon aired on Discovery Channel), was a key cameraman. Wong noted that Earth-Touch’s crew and the Wetpixel crew were based at the same location during the sardine run ([49]).

Graeme Duane, Creative Director of Earth-Touch (based in Durban), went on to film crocodile diving documentaries for National Geographic and the Smithsonian ([50]).

The Durban Undersea Club Shootout

The Durban Undersea Club (DUC) hosted South Africa’s only national underwater photography competition, the DUC Shootout, covered annually by Wetpixel from 2015 onward. The competition required images to be taken in the waters between Mozambique and the Cape, with shooting periods of several months.

The 2015 edition (the 5th DUC Shootout) was judged by South African luminaries including Peter Pinnock, Camilla Flores, Allen Walker, and others. Geo Cloete won overall, and the press release noted it was “a first for a SA based competition to receive international exposure from the world’s primary web based underwater photographic magazine” through Wetpixel’s partnership ([51]). Kate Jonker won overall in 2016 ([52]).

By 2017, Allen Walker convened the competition and invited international judges including Adam Hanlon, Greg Lecoeur, and others. Jean Tresfon won overall. That year also saw the first foreign entrants ([53]). In 2018, an international competitor (David Salvatori) won overall for the first time, a milestone the organizers described as having “set the scene for an interesting 2019 event.” Prizes exceeded R100,000 in value ([54]).

In 2016, the Underwater Photographer of the Year (UPY) image collection was displayed at the Chavonnes Battery Museum at Cape Town’s V&A Waterfront, marking South Africa’s emergence as a venue for international underwater photography exhibitions ([55]).

Award-Winning Photography

South Africa has been the source of multiple award-winning underwater images featured on Wetpixel:

Conservation Issues

Shark Nets

The KwaZulu-Natal coast uses gill nets — not barriers — designed to “entangle, suffocate and kill sharks.” Thomas Peschak reported in a 2009 Africa Geographic article that between 1978 and 2008, the nets caught 33,684 large sharks, with the present-day haul of approximately 600 sharks per year. Peschak noted: “40% of sharks are caught on the beach side of the nets on their way back out to sea” ([61]).

Allen Walker’s blacktip shark photographs from Aliwal Shoal were used “locally and internationally to highlight the plight of marine life that die in the KwaZulu Natal shark nets every year” ([62]).

Great White Shark Population Decline

A six-year study published in Marine Ecology Progress Series and reported by Wetpixel in 2016 found that the great white shark population off South Africa was “about half what had been expected” — only between 353 and 522 individuals, of which around 333 were of breeding age. The study used dorsal fin imagery, genetic biopsy sampling, and microsatellite marking, and suggested that “trophy hunting, shark nets and pollution have caused the population to decline” to the point where “the South African population of great whites may become extinct soon” ([63]).

Shark Attacks and Public Perception

In January 2010, a swimmer was killed by a great white shark at a Cape Town beach where no shark nets were deployed. The beach was monitored by Cape Town’s Shark Spotters program, which had maintained an over-four-year “no incident” record. The black flag had been flying, indicating an “enter at your risk” day. Eric Cheng published a call to action from Shark Savers director Julie Andersen, who noted: “In 2007, of the 601,133 deaths in South Africa, two were from sharks. Compare that to 6,153 deaths from vehicular accidents” ([64]).

In April 2012, the crew filming “Shark Men” for National Geographic was blamed for a fatal shark attack at Kogel Bay near Cape Town. The production team had planned to use up to 5,000 kg of chum to attract sharks, generating widespread concern in the Wetpixel community even before the attack ([65]).

Cage Diving Controversy

Cage diving operations in South Africa attracted debate about whether attracting great white sharks with chum had deleterious effects. Critics charged that “certain cage operators have been charged with irresponsible attraction of sharks to areas and even harming the sharks themselves through over-stimulation.” A scientific study, Effects on Ecotourism on the White Sharks Behavior, was cited by advocates to counter the “No cage diving” arguments ([66], [67]).

Illegal Fishing

In 2016, a 28-strong Chinese fishing fleet was detected switching off AIS transponders near Port St Johns, coinciding with the imminent start of the sardine run. The South African Fisheries Department interdicted the fleet but most vessels fled. The incident highlighted growing concerns about commercial fishing’s impact on the sardine run — a phenomenon that had been “quite noticeable by the lack of sardines” in recent years ([68]).

Notable South African Photographers and Filmmakers

Wetpixel Live

In 2021, Adam Hanlon hosted a Wetpixel Live episode featuring Kate Jonker, who described “the amazing imaging opportunities that exist in the kelp forest and reefs of her backyard in the Cape, before overviewing some of the other spectacular dive sites and natural events that can be seen and captured in South African waters” ([90]).

Other South African Connections

The S.A. Agulhas II, a South African polar research vessel, served as the base ship for the Endurance22 Expedition that located Sir Ernest Shackleton’s ship at 3,008 meters in the Weddell Sea in 2022, departing from Cape Town ([91]).

South Africa and Mozambique were featured as travel destinations in UwP (Underwater Photography) magazine, Issue 125 in 2022 ([92]).

Timeline

References

Wetpixel Live


Sources

  1. Wetpixel article, Aug 11, 2014: Andy Murch South Africa
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  18. Wetpixel article, Jul 15, 2015: Video Turtle Chases Divers
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  117. Wetpixel article, Apr 10, 2013: White Sharks Are Scavengers Rather Than Predators
  118. Wetpixel article, Jul 30, 2013: Allen Walker Blacktips Of Aliwal Shoal
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  120. Wetpixel article, May 12, 2014: Video Sony F55 Underwater By Dan Beecham
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  122. Wetpixel article, Oct 15, 2014: The Most Viral Gopro Photo To Date Is Of A Great White Shark
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  124. Wetpixel article, Jun 14, 2015: Results Durban Undersea Club Shootout
  125. Wetpixel article, Aug 4, 2015: Video Dolphin Army By Simon Buxton
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  127. Wetpixel article, Oct 20, 2015: Image The Approach By Allen Walker
  128. Wetpixel article, Apr 24, 2016: Upy Images On Display In Cape Town
  129. Wetpixel article, May 20, 2016: Duc Shootout Results Announced
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  134. Wetpixel article, Aug 26, 2017: Results Of 2017 Duc Shootout Announced
  135. Wetpixel article, Aug 9, 2018: Duc Announces Results Of 2018 Shootout
  136. Wetpixel article, Jan 2, 2019: The Sharks Of Protea Banks By Don Silcock
  137. Wetpixel article, Nov 12, 2019: Photographers Guide Sodwana Bay By Kate Jonker
  138. Wetpixel article, May 27, 2020: Welcome Hippocampus Nalu
  139. Wetpixel article, May 11, 2021: Wetpixel Live Underwater Imaging In South Africa
  140. Wetpixel article, Mar 9, 2022: Video The Wreck Of Endurance
  141. Wetpixel article, Feb 15, 2023: Review Marelux Soft Pro Snoot By Kate Jonker
  142. Wetpixel Sardine Run Expedition 2006 (article)
  143. Wildlife Photographer of the Year — Doug Perrine (2004) (article)
  144. Wetpixel Trips Update: Sardine Run and Guadalupe (2006) (article)
  145. Sardine run updates from the field (2007) (article)
  146. Wetpixel 2008 South Africa Ocean Safari expedition (article)
  147. Wetpixel sardine run updates from the field (2008) (article)
  148. Three tiger sharks killed in Aliwal Shoal (article)
  149. Film review: Island of the Great White Sharks (article)
  150. Save Our Seas Shark Centre opens (article)
  151. Earth-Touch: an online HD wildlife channel (article)
  152. Wetpixel South Africa Ocean Safari 2009 (article)
  153. History and impact of African shark nets (article)
  154. Keep shark nets out of Cape Town (article)
  155. Wetpixel Ocean Safari 2010 report (article)
  156. Eye to eye with a massive whale on Vimeo (article)
  157. Earth-Touch sardine run 2011 round-up (article)
  158. Diving with crocodiles (article)
  159. Shark Men blamed for shark attack (article)
  160. Trials and perils of the Sardine Run (2012) (article)
  161. White sharks scavenging whale carcasses in False Bay (article)
  162. Interview with Daniel Botelho (article)
  163. Allen Walker: Blacktips of Aliwal Shoal (article)
  164. Sardine Run 2013 image (article)
  165. Image: Sardine Run 2013 by Jean Tresfon (article)
  166. Andy Murch: South Africa (article)
  167. Video: Sony F55 underwater by Dan Beecham (article)
  168. Most viral GoPro photo to date (article)
  169. Fiona Ayerst: Shards of Silver (article)
  170. Behind the Shot: Harry Stone (article)
  171. Results: Durban Undersea Club Shootout (2015) (article)
  172. Video: Dolphin Army by Simon Buxton (article)
  173. Video: Ragged tooth sharks of Aliwal Shoal (article)
  174. Video: Turtle chases divers at Aliwal Shoal (article)
  175. Image: The Approach by Allen Walker (article)
  176. WPOTY 2015 results (article)
  177. UPY images on display in Cape Town (article)
  178. DUC Shootout 2016 results (article)
  179. App thwarts illegal fishing fleet off South Africa (article)
  180. Great white shark population threatened (article)
  181. WPOTY 2016 results (article)
  182. Sardine Run image wins National Geographic contest (2016) (article)
  183. Image: Orca Sunset by Jacques de Vos (article)
  184. Results of 2017 DUC Shootout (article)
  185. DUC 2018 Shootout results (article)
  186. The Sharks of Protea Banks by Don Silcock (article)
  187. Photographer’s Guide: Sodwana Bay (article)
  188. Welcome Hippocampus nalu (article)
  189. Wetpixel Live: Underwater Imaging in South Africa (article)
  190. UwP Issue 125 Available (article)
  191. Video: The Wreck of Endurance (article)
  192. Review: Marelux SOFT Pro Snoot by Kate Jonker (article)
  193. DEMA 2006: SEAL Expeditions (article)
  194. Looking for images: Sardine Run Photo Gallery 2006 (article)
  195. The World of White Sharks (forum) (forum)
  196. Wetpixel Sardine Run Trip thread (forum) (forum)
  197. Sardine Run Reprise (forum) (forum)
  198. Sardine Run 2005 topside pics (forum) (forum)
  199. Sardinops Sagax Run video (forum) (forum)
  200. Humpback whale — Sardine Run 2004 (forum) (forum)
  201. Big squid, sperm whales, white sharks (forum) (forum)
  202. South Africa white shark cage diving (forum) (forum)
  203. Sardine run lens selection (forum) (forum)
  204. Wetpixel Live Ep. 163: Underwater Imaging in South Africa (unknown)